Jeep wrangler lug nut torque specs

2006 GMC Sierra 1500. Pitman arm not seating fully on splined shaft. Will this cause problems?

2023.06.01 18:28 ElevatorFresh8941 2006 GMC Sierra 1500. Pitman arm not seating fully on splined shaft. Will this cause problems?

I am working on a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500. The pitman arm and Idler arm were worn causing excessive slack in the steering. I installed the new pitman arm and idler arm, and the new pitman arm is not seating on the pitman shaft to the same position that the factory arm did. All the threads on the pitman arm shaft nut are engaged. I used my 1/2 impact to tighten the nut on the first setting (DeWalt DCF900, most powerful battery impact currently available). I estimate the nut has been torqued to about 200 ft-lbs (spec is 180-220 ft-lbs from what I have read). After some googling, this seems like a very common outcome to installing a new pitman arm on these vehicles. Here are my concerns:
  1. The pitman arm and the idler arm are parallel, but they no longer rotate in exactly the same plane. The idler arm is maybe 1/8-3/16" above the pitman arm.
  2. Because of this, there is a gap of the same amount between the drag link and the idler arm boot. Some of the tapered shaft of the idler arm is visible between the drag link and the idler arm, with the nut tightened. I do not believe the tapered fit between the idler arm and drag link is engaged--I suspect the drag link is simply being held up onto the shaft by the nut, which seems incorrect.
  3. If I tighten the idler arm nut further than spec in order to engage the taper, I worry that I will place excessive strain on the pitman arm and idler arm, and possibly cause excessive wear on the steering gear as well.
  4. The steering feel is stiffer than before the replacement of the pitman arm and idler arm (new inner and outer tie rod ends were installed at the same time). Does this indicate a binding component(s) due to stress placed on the system from the misalignment I have described? Or could this be attributable to the normal stiffness of new rotating parts?
I would think that the pitman arm seating to the proper level, and thus properly aligning the pitman arm and idler arm, would be critical to preventing undue stress on the rotating joints of the pitman arm, idler arm, and steering gear. But many online have described this problem with various brands of aftermarket parts, even AC Delco parts (GM OEM). And some folks have said they just tightened everything down and forgot about it. The vehicle is not mine, and I'm hesitant to send someone off with anything questionable in the steering. Thanks for any advice.
submitted by ElevatorFresh8941 to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]


2023.05.31 23:19 arkmtech Vehicle shaking at Interstate speeds (75+ MPH)

I have a 2015 GMC Sierra V8 crew-cab truck which is shaking noticeably (yet not violently) when I drive on the Interstate at 70+ MPH
Last November, I had the vehicle's oil changed at the dealership (since I have a service contract with them), and they performed a tire rotation at the same time
Afterward, everything seemed normal, but I don't drive the vehicle very often since I generally work from home – and when I do drive it, it's generally just around town at 25-55 MPH, with no shaking at those speeds
In late February, I had to make a short trip to the next town over, and noticed the shaking right away
At first I thought maybe the Interstate roads were a little wash-boarded, but shortly after rode in a coworker's car over the same stretch of road, and it became apparent something was wrong with my truck
I took it back to the dealership, which performed a multi-point inspection (lights, battery, fluids, brakes & lines, shocks, shaft boots, tire tread wear & inflation) and passed everything, only noting Left-Front and Right-Front tread as 10, and Left-rear and Right-Rear tread as 9. The service manager assured me the lugs were torqued to spec, and the vehicle was safe to drive
Fast-forward to 1 week ago, and then also today, when I again had to make trips to nearby towns via the Interstate – everything feels fine until I reach ~70 MPH, and then the shaking begins
Sometimes when changing lanes, or taking a curve, the shaking will subside and the drive suddenly becomes nice and smooth – but after 2-3 miles, or after changing lanes or taking a curve again, the shaking comes back
Searching Google seems to suggest that my tires may have become unbalanced. If that indeed seems likely, can the dealership fix that, or is it better to go to a tire shop?
Otherwise, is another issue(s) that's more likely the cause?
Much as I love watching Donut on YouTube, I'm admittedly not the most mechanically-inclined person, so am at a loss for how best to approach getting this fixed
Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, since I'm hoping to make a several-hundred-mile trip in the next 2 weeks and want to be absolutely certain the vehicle is safe
Thanks much!
*EDIT: To add info, the steering wheel does not seem to shake at all – just the truck itself, enough that I can feel it through the driver's seat. I have not made any customizations or changes, so everything is OEM. The engine is a L83 - VVT with Active Fuel Management, and the truck came with the "Max Towing Package" installed from the factory
submitted by arkmtech to AskMechanics [link] [comments]


2023.05.31 20:33 Saltiest_Sailor [WTS] MOVING SALE Everything Must Go - Geissele MK8 DDC 13.5" + DD 16" Midgas Lightweight Profile Cold Hammer Forged CL Upper / PA 5X Prism 5.56 ACSS Aurora / HMB Enhanced AR15 BCG / CH Precision FN Pistol ACRO Plate / Aero M4E1 Barrel Nuts

Timestamp: https://imgur.com/a/1tN05D9
- Payment Methods That I Accept: PayPal Friends and Family, Zelle, or Venmo Friends Payments.
- I DO NOT Accept PayPal Goods and Services or Venmo Goods and Services Payments.
- If the Payment Provider asks that you put a note, just put food emojis. No firearms/firearms accessories related notes.
EVERYTHING MUST GO, IF SOMETHING ISN'T MARKED AS SOLD SHOOT YOUR SHOT WITH AN OFFER.
//////////////////////// ITEM(S): ////////////////////////
- HM Defense AR-15 5.56/.223 HMB Battle Bolt Carrier Group: Brand New. 9310 Steel Bolt / 4340 Hardened Steel Cam Pin / Nitride Black Finish
Sells for $119.95 New. Your Price is $90 Shipped SOLD
- C and H Precision FN 509, FN 510, and FN 545 Aimpoint ACRO Plate: Brand new.
Sells for $64.95 New, Your Price is $40 Shipped SOLD
- Aero M4E1 Enhanced Upper Barrel Nuts: Both brand new.
$15 Shipped Each - 1 Available
- Geissele 13.5" DDC MK8 + Daniel Defense 16" Midlength Gas Lightweight Cold Hammer Forged Chrome Lined Barrel + Aero Precision FDE Upper Receiver + Aero Precision Melonite Gas Tube + Pinned BCM 0.750" Low Profile Gas Block + NDZ Performance FDE Cerakoted Ejection Port Cover: Great condition.
Around 500 rounds. Some carbon buildup on end of barrel which can be removed with a CLP soak or some form of Carb-out. There is a small chip in the cerakote on the ejection port cover but you should be rattle-canning this upper anyway.
Gas block pinning done by D. Wilson Mfg. Barrel nut is torqued down to correct Geissele specs using Aeroshell 33 anti-seize grease. The rails crossbolts and set screws are secured with Loctite GO2 Gel/Glue (Heat Resistant Silicone-Based Loctite similar to Blue Loctite for a thread-locking capacity comparison).
IF BOUGHT NEW: Barrel $322.00 + Rail $316.89 + Upper Receiver $97.95 + Ejection Port Cover $15.99 + Gas Tube $16.14 + Pinned Gas Block $44.95 = $813.92 Total Not Including Shipping + Tax
YOUR PRICE: Barrel $250 + Rail $250 + Upper Receiver $75 + Ejection Port Cover $8 + Gas Tube $12 + Pinned Gas Block $40 = $635 Shipped Total
- PRIMARY ARMS 5X PRISM – SLX 5X GEN III ACSS 5.56 AURORA RETICLE with Killflash: Brand new.
Sells for $329.99 Scope + $30 Killflash New, Your Price is $280 + $15 = $295 Shipped SOLD
submitted by Saltiest_Sailor to GunAccessoriesForSale [link] [comments]


2023.05.31 16:01 khoafraelich789 TOYOTA COROLLA HYBRID 2023 REVIEW: A SENSIBLE UPDATE FOR A SENSIBLE CAR

TOYOTA COROLLA HYBRID 2023 REVIEW: A SENSIBLE UPDATE FOR A SENSIBLE CAR

https://preview.redd.it/is9y9m0awq1b1.png?width=1300&format=png&auto=webp&s=95897f4b35009b8cbad6f29053a666be673ef774
Toyota has long had an image of quiet sensibleness about it. They used to be the sort of car bought by those who prioritise reliability above all else, and for whom excitement is anathema. That has begun to change, and not just in the fire-breathing GR models. Outgoing Toyota CEO Akio Toyoda (grandson of the company founder) is a car nut to his fingertips, and waged a long campaign to make his family company’s products more exciting to drive, and to look at.

The once-bland Corolla has been a major part of that plan, relaunched in 2019 with sharper styling and a more invigorating driving experience. Now, for 2023, it’s getting a facelift (of the most minor sort) and an upgrade to its hybrid powertrain. Does that make it a more interesting prospect still, or is Toyota once again playing it safe?

Exterior design and rivals
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If you can line up the outgoing Corolla and the new side by side and spot all the differences, you’ll probably win a Toyota-branded anorak. The updated Corolla looks all-but identical to the outgoing one, with only the front bumper, the internal bits of the head- and tail-lights and the back bumper actually new. There are some updated alloy wheel designs, admittedly, and a couple of new paint options including the handsome new ‘Juniper Blue’ finish pictured here.

For all its familiarity. the Corolla remains a smart looking car. It can even look enticingly sporty at times, especially in estate form, and especially in the more overt GR Sport trim (not to be confused with the actual GR Corolla hot hatch that British buyers are still denied). The blandness of previous models has been thoroughly banished, and the Corolla is much the better for it.

Will that be enough to give the Corolla more kerbside and showroom appeal than the new Honda Civic, or the venerable Volkswagen Golf? Perhaps — impressive though the new Civic is, it is a very conservatively-styled car on the outside, while the droopy-nosed eighth-generation Golf is looking tired already, unless you get a sporty model such as the GTI.

Hyundai’s handsome i30 Fastback is arguably the Corolla’s sharpest looking rival, although it currently lacks any kind of hybrid or plug-in hybrid option, while the Skoda Octavia provides a strong contest, as not only is it quietly handsome on the outside, it’s significantly more spacious than the Corolla inside.

Interior and practicality
Toyota has made more meaningful changes to the Corolla’s interior, but those changes come under the heading of technology, so we’ll cover those below. Elsewhere, the overall shapes and styling are the same as before, and so too are the exceptional quality levels — the Corolla remains a car able to put much more expensive models to shame with its cabin quality.

It’s far from the roomiest car around, though. While the front seats are very comfortable and supportive, and the driving position good, the high centre console and the way the dashboard design juts outward above your knees makes the car feel a touch cramped, especially if you’re tall.

There’s also a lack of storage space. The box under the front armrest, the door bins and the little shelf in front of the gear lever (which is optionally occupied by a wireless phone charger) are all a bit small, so there isn’t quite enough room for all your keys, wallets, water bottles and so on.

In the five-door hatchback there’s simply not enough legroom for one tall adult to sit behind another. If you’re going to accommodate anyone over the age of 13 in the back seats, the driver and front passenger are going to have to slide their seats forward. Headroom is also less than generous.

The boot isn’t much better. Even Toyota people will admit that the 361-litre boot is less than class leading, some 20 litres shy of the Golf’s and hundreds of litres smaller than a Skoda Octavia’s. The only upside is that the Toyota’s boot is roomier or at least as roomy as some plug-in hybrid rivals — such as the Vauxhall Astra.

You’d be much better off in the Corolla Touring Sports estate. This sits on a structure with the front and rear wheels pushed apart by 10cm and which offers rear space that, if not exactly generous, is at least adequate.

The Touring Sport’s boot is more useful, too — at 598 litres up to the luggage cover it’s not the biggest in the class, but it’s more than enough for most purposes. Fold the estate’s back seats flat (disappointingly, they only split 60:40, compared to the 40:20:40 of the Peugeot 308 SW) and you’ve got 1,606 litres of load space.

Technology and safety
The new 12.3in digital driver’s display is a welcome replacement for the previous mixed analogue and digital instrument panel, which looked tired and old even when it was new.

The new digital screen is much sharper, and while you’ll have to submit to a somewhat confusing settings menu to alter the layout, you can at least do so. The graphics look crisp, too.

A dramatic backlit side view of the Corolla pops up as you switch driving modes.

In the centre of the dash is a new 10.5in touchscreen infotainment system, which is a massive improvement on that of the outgoing Corolla.

Its graphics are bang up to date, and its menu layout is significantly more simple and logical. Toyota has helpfully retained physical stereo volume buttons, as well as separate physical heating and ventilation controls, which makes life much easier and safer on the move.

The screen includes a cloud-based navigation system that can give you live traffic advice, but which can be a touch laggy and slip behind the physical position of the car if you’re in an area of low mobile reception.

The Corolla now has a built-in antenna for internet connectivity, though, which powers that cloud-based nav, and which is free to use for the first four years of ownership. It also enables connection to your mobile phone through an app, which allows you to monitor the car’s various functions, flash the lights in a busy car park so that you can find it and remotely start the climate control so that you can cool the car down, or defrost it, before leaving the house.

The app, called MyT, also includes hybrid driving tips for anyone new to part-battery driving.

The Corolla already had a full five-star rating from Euro NCAP when it comes to crash safety, but Toyota has updated and upgraded the electronic safety kit under the name T-Mate. That upgrade includes a new forward-facing camera and radar that are claimed to be more effective than before, and which give the Corolla standard-fit adaptive cruise control.

The camera also allows for a new system called Proactive Driving Assist (PDA) — while this has some familiar functions such as collision warnings, it also includes a new active braking system that automatically ramps up the amount of energy recovered back into the battery when you lift off the accelerator while approaching a corner or when there’s a slower moving car in front.

It’s not quite ‘one-pedal’ driving, but it’s quite a useful and intuitive system that is backed up by a new active steering assistant that can help you swerve away from danger in an extreme situation.

Optionally, you can fit your Corolla with a blind-spot monitor and a rear cross-traffic alert, and with these systems comes an extra one — Safe Exit Assist, which warns you if you’re about to open a door into the path of an oncoming cyclist. It only works on the front doors, though, and unlike Hyundai’s system — which will actually inhibit the door latch to stop you opening it — the Corolla just has a flashing light and a warning beep.

Performance, power output and acceleration
While the engine capacity of the basic 1.8-litre Corolla hybrid has remained the same, Toyota says that has been significantly upgraded as part of its new fifth-generation hybrid setup. For the 1.8, that means a new, more efficient, lithium-ion battery and a more powerful — 94bhp and 136lb ft of torque — electric motor, as well as a new computer brain.

The effect of all that is higher peak power — 138bhp now, up from 121bhp previously — and the same or better efficiency.

The 2-litre version also gets more power — it’s now up to 193bhp — and it’s slightly lighter than before as it has switched from a nickel metal hydride battery to a lithium-ion pack.

The 1.8 version arguably makes the 2-litre model redundant, as its extra power is really only noticeable under hard acceleration and that’s just not how you drive a Corolla hybrid. Much better to accelerate relatively gently, and let the improved electric motor do more of the work.

Do that and you’ll not only save fuel (55mpg is easy, beyond 60mpg is certainly possible), but you’ll also save your ears. Toyota has worked hard — and largely successfully — over the years to remove from its hybrids the high-revving noise when accelerating, and it’s certainly noticeable that the Corolla spends less time grinding away at high rpm to gather speed on the motorway. Long uphill runs are not its friend, but noise levels are rarely excessive in day-to-day driving.

The extra power on offer has given the Corolla swifter 0-62mph times — 9.1 seconds for the 1.8, 7.4 seconds for the 2-litre, but you’ll need to be in Sport mode if you want to feel the system at its highest performing. In the more likely event that you’re driving in Normal or Eco modes, the Corolla’s hybrid engine just rows along nicely, if unspectacularly.

It’s certainly more noticeable how much more of the work is done by the electric motor than before. Not so long ago, you had to drive any Toyota hybrid with exceptional care to keep it running on electric power – as indicated by a little “EV” icon in the instruments. Now, you can accelerate quite decisively, and get well above 30mph before the petrol engine wakes up.

Toyota reckons that as much as 80 per cent of urban journeys in a Corolla can be done on just electric power, which is impressive if it can be replicated (we scored an apparent 50 per cent electric ratio on our mixed country road, motorway and town drive if the dashboard display is to be believed).

Ride and handling
In 2019, the Corolla was almost shocking in how nice it was to drive. Previous generations had been pretty forgettable, but with this 12th generation, suddenly there was sharp steering and a willing, engaging chassis. That carries forward to the updated model.

Comfort is still clearly more of a priority than excitement. The Corolla rides firmly, but with a well-damped sense of comfort. It only gets harsh if you spec it up with the 18in alloy wheels of the GR Sport models. The mid-spec 17in wheels are perfectly fine when it comes to comfort, although all Corolla models seem to suffer from too much tyre roar on coarse tarmac, which does spoil the refinement.

The steering is light but very fluid in feel and quite quick across its locks. The Corolla also seems to have plenty of front-end grip in reserve, so tightening corners hold no great fears.

It’s not as sharp in its steering feel as say a Ford Focus or a Mazda3, but it’s certainly satisfying, and on a twisty mountain road it’s easy to get the Corolla into a pleasant and enjoyable rhythm, sweeping from corner to corner.

That Proactive Driving Assist also helps, as the extra bit of regenerative braking when approaching a bend can help you better balance the car on corner entry, so it’s as much a driving aid as a safety and energy-saving feature.

Pricing and on-sale date
The Corolla is on sale now and prices start from £30,210 for an Icon spec hatchback with the 1.8-litre hybrid engine. Standard spec for Icon models includes 16in alloys, LED headlights, the 12.3in digital instrument screen, the 10.5in infotainment system with online connectivity and cloud-based navigation, a wireless phone charger, keyless entry and ignition, two-zone air conditioning, a reversing camera, front and rear parking sensors and heated front seats.

If you want the 2-litre engine in Icon form, that’ll cost you £31,955 while the Touring Sports estate costs £31,545 with the 1.8 engine, or £33,290 as a 2-litre, both in Icon spec.

For £31,780 you can upgrade your 1.8 hatchback to Design spec, which comes with 17in machined-look alloy wheels, uprated LED headlights, rear privacy glass, auto-folding door mirrors, rain sensing wipers, ambient cabin lighting and a self-dimming rear-view mirror. A 2-litre hatch in Design spec costs £33,525, while the estate 1.8 Design is £33,115 and the 2-litre Design is £34,860.

Sporty-looking GR Sport spec starts from £32,990 for the 1.8 hatchback (£34,735 for the 2-litre and £34,705 or £36,450 for the 1.8 and 2-litre Touring Sports respectively). For that you get a chunky body kit with unique front and rear bumper designs, 18in dark grey alloys, black door mirror caps, red contrast stitching for the inside (along with embossed GR Sport logos) and the option of a contrast-colour roof.

At the top of the range is the Excel model, which will set you back £33,400 for the 1.8 hatch; £35,145 for the 2-litre hatch; £35,115 for the 1.8 estate; or £36,860 for the 2-litre estate. Standard Excel equipment includes 18in alloys, adaptive high-beam control, leather upholstery, a head-up display, blind-spot monitor, rear cross-traffic alert, safe exit assist and the option of a panoramic glass sunroof.

Verdict: Toyota Corolla Hybrid review
The fact that Toyota hasn’t changed the Corolla much is perhaps not very surprising. After all, in 2021, the 50 millionth Corolla was sold, underscoring the success of the model’s history of steady evolution rather than stunning revolution.

It remains a sensible choice, and the upgrades to the hybrid system are welcome both for the extra power and for the still-excellent economy. It’s no high-performance ball of fire but the Corolla is sharper and more rewarding to drive than you might expect. Given Toyota’s well-earned reputation for reliability, it should be a satisfying car to own in the long term.

Source: driving co
submitted by khoafraelich789 to CarInformationNews [link] [comments]


2023.05.30 19:38 EquivalentPrudent838 Axel nuts seal

Axel nuts seal
Axel nuts keep coming loose. I have done hub seals for 3 of my trucks, and on two of those trucks the Axel bolts keep coming loose. How is this possible? What is the torque specs for these 8 nuts?
submitted by EquivalentPrudent838 to DieselTechs [link] [comments]


2023.05.30 16:02 khoafraelich789 2024 Toyota Tacoma’s Manual Transmission Opens Door To Stick-Shift 4Runner

2024 Toyota Tacoma’s Manual Transmission Opens Door To Stick-Shift 4Runner

https://preview.redd.it/aqgikdy9qq1b1.png?width=1920&format=png&auto=webp&s=516df75900af19232461888e77e696e1ed92452f
The Toyota 4Runner is a hit, but it's undeniably long in the tooth. The next-generation model is just around the corner, set to follow behind the brand-new 2024 Toyota Tacoma that broke cover last week. It's possible that the connection between the two could result in a manual 4Runner next time around, and we went straight to the source to find out.

Of course, it's never that simple. At the Tacoma reveal last week, the truck's chief engineer Sheldon Brown told The Drive, "Obviously I can't really talk about future development and future product, but certainly for Tacoma, it's always been there and it was really important that we maintain it so for us. Obviously, it's not a high-volume seller but for those who love the three-pedal truck, we wanted to keep it alive."

The new Tacoma goes all out with hybrid drivetrains, a two-door, two-seater spec, and yes, a manual transmission option on the 2.4-liter turbo four-cylinder. Given the new Tacoma will share the TNGA-F platform with the next-gen 4Runner and the legendary Hilux, it suggests that a three-pedal setup could be a drop-in fit for the popular SUV, too.

Notably, Brown didn't rule out a manual option for the 4Runner. There was no mention of intractable engineering or manufacturing issues that would preclude such an option, nor an expression of difficult market realities.

Of course, Brown's answer doesn't affirmatively tell us a lot, which isn't surprising. Automakers always carefully control any reveal of information about future models. Plus, staff are primed before press events to ensure they don't accidentally give away any crucial secrets. Regardless, it may be that no manual 4Runner is on the cards, or that it will prove too niche to be worth the effort. But the possibility is there, and we're yet to hear an outright denial from Toyota itself.

For now, though, the window remains open. Manual transmissions may not be as popular as they once were, but they've hung on for the die-hard enthusiast set. This is particularly true in the off-road world, where manual Ford Broncos and Jeep Wranglers continue to sell well. Whether Toyota gives 4Runner buyers a clutch pedal for the first time in 23 years remains to be seen, but we'll keep our fingers crossed.

Source: thedrive
submitted by khoafraelich789 to CarInformationNews [link] [comments]


2023.05.30 09:28 Ripboazo Torque specs for SR-15/SR-25 Mod 2 Gas Tube Nut

Torque specs for SR-15/SR-25 Mod 2 Gas Tube Nut
Does anyone know the torque specs on these? I can’t find it anywhere.
submitted by Ripboazo to kac [link] [comments]


2023.05.30 04:51 jlo7693 Tire Information And Lifting Points Quick Link - Mitchell 1 ProDemand

Tire Information And Lifting Points Quick Link - Mitchell 1 ProDemand
Mitchell 1 ProDemand makes proper vehicle lifting and tire service easy by combining lift points and tire information in a single Quick Link, helping your technicians work safely and efficiently.
All tire information is consolidated in this single link, including:
• Vehicle lifting points
• Fitment such as tire sizes, wheel lug nut torque values, etc.
• Dill tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) part numbers
• Schrader TPMS part numbers
• ATEQ TPMS reset procedures
• Bartec TPMS reset procedures
Properly placing a vehicle on a lift is a crucial first step to performing service and repairs accurately. Not only does lifting a vehicle correctly improve the technician’s safety, but it also helps to avoid vehicle damage.
GET STARTED TODAY with a FREE 14 day trial of ProDemand. No obligation. No credit card required. It's 100% Free! -> https://www.m1repair.com/mitchell1-prodemand-update-tire-information-and-lifting-points-quick-link
Tire Information And Lifting Points Quick Link - Mitchell 1 ProDemand
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2023.05.30 03:45 Mediocre-Brilliant11 Clutch inner hub nut

Hi guys. I’m a newbie with some dumb question but do you guys really tighten a clutch basket inner hub nut to the torque spec in the manual? I have a ktm 2022 300xc and I just did a clutch rebuild and when it came to reinstalling I could only tighten that nut to around 80Nm but the factory torque spec said 100Nm. I couldn’t really go over 80Nm cause my clutch holder tool sucks it kept slipping and I could only reach to 80 but seems really tight to me and the washer tab underneath the nut holds it fine and same way it did as before I took it apart. Ps: the clutch holder tool scratch the inner hub a bit but idk if it could be an issue.
submitted by Mediocre-Brilliant11 to Dirtbikes [link] [comments]


2023.05.30 00:49 uliwonks Your supposed to torque your wheels lug nuts to spec every-time you take your wheels off?!

If this makes sense, no wonder I have pulsating brakes. My rotors are most likely warped from tightening the lug nuts too much.
What best value torque wrench should I buy for my car if I constantly take out the wheels every week?
submitted by uliwonks to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]


2023.05.29 06:24 cjanderson916 [WTS] Eotech G33 Magnifier/Unity Omni FTC Mount, Surefire Pro Picatinny Mount, First Spear Helmet Hut, Ops Core Shroud, Railscales G10 in MLOK, JP 308 Compensator, Ameriglo Glock Sights, NBS Glock 19 Slide, G-Code Holsters for G43X, AWS Woodland LAB Belt, Triple Aught Design Shorts, Camelbak MULE

Time stamp: https://imgur.com/a/5oYkO2P
Optic/Optic Accessories:
-Eotech G33 Magnifier. Black. Mounted and removed. Can pass as new. $380 shipped.
Unity Omni FTC Mount. Black. Mounted and removed. Can pass as new. $240 shipped.
Light/Light Accessories:
-Surefire Pro Picatinny Mount. Black. Brand new. $30 shipped.
Helmet/Helmet Accessories:
-First Spear Helmet Hut. Black. Brand new. $160 shipped.
-Ops Core Modular Bungee Shroud. Black. Used a handful of times, in like new condition. $105 shipped.
Magazine/Magazine Accessories:
-8492NylonWorks Magazine Wedges Adapter Kit for Spiritus Micro Fight Chassis (will work with other chest rigs). Comes with three Esstac Kywi 5.56 Mid Length Wedges. Installed then removed, I prefer the retention of the Spiritus Triple Magazine Insert. Brand new. Paid $75 for everything, selling for $65 shipped.
AR Accessories:
Railscales G10 in MLOK. Black FR4/MiniDot/3Slot. Like new. $25 shipped
Railscales G10 in MLOK. Black FR4/MiniDot/4Slot. Like new. $35 shipped
Railscales G10 in MLOK. Black FR4/MiniDot/4Slot. Like new. $35 shipped
-JP Enterprises .308 Compensator. Comes with $13 Jam Nut from JP. Matte Black. Used at the most for 100 rounds, like new. $85 shipped.
-Custom Upper that my friend assembled with new parts he had laying around. Just went through and made sure everything was torqued to spec. Smith & Wesson Upper, Midwest Industries G4 One Piece Free Float Handguard (15”/Keymod), Stainless Steel Carbine Length Gas Tube (unknown brand), Nitride Gas Block (unknown brand), 16” Carbine Length Barrel Stamped “5.56 NATO 1/9” (unknown brand), A2 Birdcage. Used for less than 1000 rounds and in great condition. $220 shipped.
Glock Accessories:
-Ameriglo Hackathorn Sight Set GL-436 for 42, 43, 43X, 48. Installed then removed, can pass as new. $45 shipped.
-NBS Glock 19 Gen 3 Slide with RMR Cut. Lightly used in great condition. $155 shipped.
-G-Code Syncron IWB for Glock 43X. Black Kydex/No Rail/Right Hand. Like new. $45 shipped.
-G-Code Phenom Speed for Glock 43X. Black Kydex/No Rail/Right Hand/Black Anodized Super MoClaw. Like new. $45 shipped.
Soft goods:
-AWS Woodland LAB Belt. Small (28”-31”)/D-Ring with Cord/2” Black Inner Belt. Comes with eight strips of Velcro One-Wrap used to mount accessories to the belt. Used for one range day, can pass as new. $70 shipped.
-Triple Aught Design Recon ST Short. Size 28. Color Tarmac. Realized they were one size too small for my liking after purchase and wearing them once, like new. $65 shipped.
Camelbak M.U.L.E. 100oz Mil-Spec Crux. Black. Used once then sat in my closet collecting dust. Bladder has been disinfected and dried out ready for next owner. Sells for $165 directly from Camelbak. Selling for $85 shipped
Free stuff:
-3M Repel Cord for Tactical Earplugs. Pack of 5. Brand new. Free, just pay $5 for shipping.
I accept PayPal with NO NOTES but ApplePay and CashApp are my preferred methods of payment.
Pics: https://imgur.com/a/jyd8xqx
submitted by cjanderson916 to GunAccessoriesForSale [link] [comments]


2023.05.28 22:13 toolmansamt Couldn’t pass up the chance to stop maxing out my old 3/8” Pittsburg torque wrench for lug nuts. $60 with 25% coupon.

Couldn’t pass up the chance to stop maxing out my old 3/8” Pittsburg torque wrench for lug nuts. $60 with 25% coupon. submitted by toolmansamt to harborfreight [link] [comments]


2023.05.28 08:59 TheSkepticalEngineer That’s a lot of damage

That’s a lot of damage
Totaled up the cost of my first build so far… it’s not done yet and there’s still a few more tools and things I need to buy before it’s “done”. It’s a bit more expensive than I thought it would be.
submitted by TheSkepticalEngineer to Miguns [link] [comments]


2023.05.27 20:38 microphohn Pressure Washer Specs are mostly lies or misunderstanding. Here’s what you need to know

I recently had occasion to survey what YouTube knows about pressure washers and specs, and was disappointed. I work in fluid power and want to help make this clearer for you. We’ll focus on gas-powered cold water units for this discussion.
It’s useful to remember that pumps don’t make pressure. Pumps generate flow. Because pressure washer pumps are positive displacement, they have nearly constant flow at a given pump speed. If you have a 3.5gpm pressure washer and have no nozzle in the lance, it is flowing 3.5gpm at maybe 40psi just like it will flow 3.5gpm at a couple thousand PSI. The flow is largely constant if pump speed is constant.
As you add restriction to your pump’s outlet flow, the pressure rises. This demands more work from the engine. Thus, the actual operating pressure of your pressure washer is determined by how much restriction you place on the outlet flow. Eventually if you add enough restriction, you will raise pressure high enough that the pump will try to protect itself and open the unloader. (Note, this is a pump protection device, NOT A REGULATOR). Or, if the pump is slightly oversized for the engine, the engine will lug down in RPM before the unloader opens.
The correct way to set the operating pressure of your pressure washer is therefore to vary the restriction on the outlet flow. We do this with changing orifice sizes in your tips. A small orifice like a #3 will have more restriction and higher pressure than a larger orifice like a #6. There are charts available online the correct orifice size to restriction for a given pump flow.
Let’s look at pump and engine matching by analyzing this Northern Tool unit:Northern Tool
This uses a Honda GX390 with a CAT 66dX 3.5gpm pump.
The GX390 has the following power curve: Link The Honda engine provides about 17lb-ft of torque at 3600rpm. The CAT pump specs are here
We can see that the pump shows 14.8lb-ft of torque is required to overcome 4000psi of pressure at the rated flow of 3.5gpm and 3400 pump RPM.
This means the engine always has more power than load the pump can place on it. This pump cannot pull the engine below it’s rated operating speed.
But with this pump on this engine, you can never get more than 3.5gpm flow.
The same engine could be fitted with a 4gpm pump and use all of the engine’s available power when it was pushed as high as 4000psi. The 4 gpm pump is well matched and gets more useful work from the engine than the 3.5gpm pump does. But it also costs quite a bit more.
CAT even offers a 5gpm pump compatible with the GX390’s drive flange and shaft. This pump specs show that the GX390 would only be good for just over 3000psi with this pump. The GX390 doesn’t have enough torque to overcome higher pressures at the higher rated flow of the 5gpm pump. But for most real world applications, the 5gpm is likely the better option for maximizing the GX390 performance. But understanding why requires understanding how pressure and flow contribute to cleaning effectiveness.
Ever think about why a 15 degree nozzle has “more power” than a 40 degree nozzle even at the same flow and pressure from the washer? You probably intuited that its because the wider nozzle spreads out the spray. Pressure is force times area. With the same pressure, the more area, the less force. This is why getting closer to the surface makes such a difference— it concentrates the spray to a small area and increases the force.
Just by varying technique, you can make a 2500psi unit destroy a wood deck or vinyl siding just like a 4000psi unit. And if you stand back far enough, you can make a 4000psi unit as ineffective as a tiny electric washer.
The point here is that real world pressure varies a lot in practice and that any pressure higher than what is needed is a waste of power. If it takes 2000psi is do what you need to do, more pressure won’t do it better. MORE FLOW is the way to go.
There are only a tiny handful of applications where extremely high pressures (over 3500psi) are useful: removing barnacles from ships, cleaning sewers, etc. For most residential and commercial cleaning roles— homes, concrete, cars, etc, pressures as low as 2000psi are sufficient and the higher flow allows you to work faster and save some fatigue.
submitted by microphohn to Tools [link] [comments]


2023.05.27 18:55 Spearitgun After this refresh, it drives like a different car. Unreal.

After this refresh, it drives like a different car. Unreal.
Just completed a lot of work I had been planning and acquiring parts for over the last two years. Big brakes all four corners, new sway bars, custom valving and spring rate Ohlin’s DFV grand touring spec long stroke coilovers, and some CE28SLs wrapped in some Ventus RS4s. Extended length ARP wheel studs, Ti open ended lug nuts and Ti top hat bolts for the coilovers are the finishing touches. Need to paint the BYS front lip and install and that will be my last mod for the time being. Eventually I want to add buckets, lower my seat height, and shed weight with a full Ti exhaust, removal of the soft top and addition of a full carbon hardtop. Long time lurker, thanks for looking.
submitted by Spearitgun to S2000 [link] [comments]


2023.05.26 23:46 watchmaker82 GEICO roadside assistance commercial with Spanish guitar

https://www.ispot.tv/ad/wwxK/geico-emergency-roadside-service-the-flat-tire-guitar-solo
Where do I even start with this horrifying dumpster fire? I don't like Geico commercials because I think it probably pumps the rates up for customers, especially when they air them 3 million times a day. But I especially hate them when they are as brain burningly inane stupid and just plain misinformed as this pile of horse dung.
Family pulls over and gets a flat tire. The Dad starts to move to get out and change the tire. Apparently he's the most useless person with tools who has ever existed because his wife stops him before he can even leave the car, and dials up the mobile app. It's not even raining or anything she just has no faith in the man.
First I can't stand the wife and her fucking holier than now I know everything and you don't attitude. What an absolute Karen.
Then she clicks on I have a flat tire in the app, and then has to somehow tap her position to tell them where she is? Because the Geico app is the only one that doesn't have a use my current location button?
It then it shows the assistance truck pulling up behind them as she's tapping her location in the app. Not only is it instantaneous, he was on his way to them before they even got a flat tire! I don't know if any of you have ever waited for a tow company, but the shortest wait I ever had was like two and a half hours. So this portrayal of an instantaneous teleporting tow truck is fucking bogus.
Now the whole point of getting a tow truck to come out instead of letting dad do it is they wanted expert assistance right? Well apparently the tow truck driver doesn't know what he's doing either.
The flat is on the front and the tow truck driver puts the temporary spare on the front. Unless you're going less than 10 MI, which I doubt is the case because they are shown on a freeway probably on a family trip, you never ever ever put the temporary spare on the front tire. It is recommended to replace a rear wheel and tire, and put that rear tire on the front. This is the recommended practice because your front tires do all of the braking and steering, and the temporary spare isn't good at either of those things because it has a lot less contact patch and can't stand as much stress.
Yes this is standard even on rear drive cars. It is a safety issue.
So then they showed doofus tow truck driver tightening up the last of the lug nuts with a spider wrench. (I don't know why the tow truck guy doesn't carry a torque wrench with him.) AND IT MAKES A FUCKING RATCHET SOUND. First of all there is no ratchet mechanism in the spider wrench it's a solid lump of metal. Second, even if there were, if it's making the ratchet sound when you're tightening to the right, it's set to loosen and you're not tightening Jack fucking God damn shit.
The look of satisfaction on the smug Karen's face at the end is the final turd on top of the pile of road apples. Because heaven forbid a guy should want to do something himself and save his family 3 hours waiting by the side of the goddamn Road.
I hate a lot of commercials but I don't hate everything about a commercial like I do with this one. Fuck this commercial and fuck everybody who worked on it and fuck everybody who approved it and fuck everyone who works at Geico.
Fin.
submitted by watchmaker82 to CommercialsIHate [link] [comments]


2023.05.26 23:06 StaplePT Why is this torque wrench behaving this way ? Need urgent help.

Why is this torque wrench behaving this way ? Need urgent help.
It's clicking the entire time regardless of whether the lug nut has been tightened a bit or not. I don't understand at all. I thought it was supposed to click only when it reaches the torque. I tried to rotate the top black part thinking it's set in counterclockwise but it didn't change anything.
( Very frustrated rant below - not required reading)
First the jack wouldn't work and I couldn't fix it so had to use the emergency jack to change the tires and now this brand new torque wrench. A 1 hour job is now in its 3rd hour and counting. I'm still on tire #1. I think from now on I'll fork over the $60 twice a year to get my mechanic to do it and fuck if he over torques it. I don't understand how you guys tolerate so much going wrong when you try to do it yourself or maybe I'm just bad at doing things myself. You all and every YouTube video makes it sound simple and easy like nothing can go wrong. It's such a time suck and an emotional drain. I'm jealous of those of you who can one time pay $200 for your tools and save money over the years.
submitted by StaplePT to AskMechanics [link] [comments]


2023.05.26 19:03 Saltiest_Sailor [WTS] MOVING SALE Everything Must Go - Geissele MK8 DDC 13.5" + DD 16" Midgas Lightweight Profile Cold Hammer Forged CL Upper / PA 5X Prism 5.56 ACSS Aurora / HMB Enhanced AR15 BCG / CH Precision FN Pistol ACRO Plate / Aero M4E1 Barrel Nuts

Timestamp: https://imgur.com/a/1tN05D9
- Payment Methods That I Accept: PayPal Friends and Family, Zelle, or Venmo Friends Payments.
- I DO NOT Accept PayPal Goods and Services or Venmo Goods and Services Payments.
- If the Payment Provider asks that you put a note, just put food emojis. No firearms/firearms accessories related notes.
EVERYTHING MUST GO, IF SOMETHING ISN'T MARKED AS SOLD SHOOT YOUR SHOT WITH AN OFFER.
//////////////////////// ITEM(S): ////////////////////////
- HM Defense AR-15 5.56/.223 HMB Battle Bolt Carrier Group: Brand New. 9310 Steel Bolt / 4340 Hardened Steel Cam Pin / Nitride Black Finish
Sells for $119.95 New. Your Price is $90 Shipped
- C and H Precision FN 509, FN 510, and FN 545 Aimpoint ACRO Plate: Brand new.
Sells for $64.95 New, Your Price is $40 Shipped
- Aero M4E1 Enhanced Upper Barrel Nuts: Both brand new.
$15 Shipped Each - 2 Available
- Geissele 13.5" DDC MK8 + Daniel Defense 16" Midlength Gas Lightweight Cold Hammer Forged Chrome Lined Barrel + Aero Precision FDE Upper Receiver + Aero Precision Melonite Gas Tube + Pinned BCM 0.750" Low Profile Gas Block + NDZ Performance FDE Cerakoted Ejection Port Cover: Great condition.
Around 500 rounds. Some carbon buildup on end of barrel which can be removed with a CLP soak or some form of Carb-out. There is a small chip in the cerakote on the ejection port cover but you should be rattle-canning this upper anyway.
Gas block pinning done by D. Wilson Mfg. Barrel nut is torqued down to correct Geissele specs using Aeroshell 33 anti-seize grease. The rails crossbolts and set screws are secured with Loctite GO2 Gel/Glue (Heat Resistant Silicone-Based Loctite similar to Blue Loctite for a thread-locking capacity comparison).
IF BOUGHT NEW: Barrel $322.00 + Rail $316.89 + Upper Receiver $97.95 + Ejection Port Cover $15.99 + Gas Tube $16.14 + Pinned Gas Block $44.95 = $813.92 Total Not Including Shipping + Tax
YOUR PRICE: Barrel $250 + Rail $250 + Upper Receiver $75 + Ejection Port Cover $8 + Gas Tube $12 + Pinned Gas Block $40 = $635 Shipped Total
- PRIMARY ARMS 5X PRISM – SLX 5X GEN III ACSS 5.56 AURORA RETICLE with Killflash: Brand new.
Sells for $329.99 Scope + $30 Killflash New, Your Price is $280 + $15 = $295 Shipped
submitted by Saltiest_Sailor to GunAccessoriesForSale [link] [comments]


2023.05.26 18:53 olafpfj Lost a couple lug nuts after the dealership rotated my tires 2023 BRZ.

Had my oil changed after the break in period at the dealership and they rotated my tires as well. Not sure how long those two lug nuts have been missing. Checked the rest of the lug nuts and none of them were anywhere near spec and there were two more about ready to come loose. Had my wife buy a couple replacements and run them out to me so I got home safe. Needless to say I'm pretty pissed.
How big a stink should I make with the dealership?
submitted by olafpfj to ft86 [link] [comments]


2023.05.26 16:44 dj_ordje Mini Tutorial: Adding fuses to your Lynx Power-In

Mini Tutorial: Adding fuses to your Lynx Power-In
Unscrew the plastic holder (it's already got the m8 bolts in it in the picture). Add a M8x35 or M8x40 Bolt (M8x40 depicted) with two washers from the backside. Add another 5 washers, a fuse, the cable lug, another washer and a lock washer and finally a nut. Torque to 13nm.
submitted by dj_ordje to Victron [link] [comments]


2023.05.26 13:41 K8stuff My review of the Diamondback 0.4mm and 0.8mm nozzle on the Ender 3 S1 Pro (pics in comments)

Let me first pre-empt my review with three common troubleshooting techniques I am aware of.
- Dry Filament. I have used a known (to me) and stable filament. I have gotten great prints without much effort - even when printing a massive TPU sleeve for a back roller. I didn't have to change a thing apart from drying.
In addition to that I have used a new (to me) PETG filament. Some may remember my post about troubleshooting this blue stuff from Geeetech. Both spools have been dried for at least two days prior printing (PLA at 50c and PETG at 65-70c) and in addition to that I have continued drying whilst printing.
- Tramming. I only started printing two months or so ago and a Reddit user was so kind to DM me offering help (you know who you are, thank you) and he has since been talking to me almost daily. My bottom line, I know how tramming works now. I started with OEM, switched to yellow springs then silicone washers and now have a very stable bed using nuts and bolts. In fact, I know I shouldn’t have to but I tend to check tramming before each filament change and my first layers coming out mint every time.
- Z calibration. Again it’s spot on. First layers are always perfect and tend to be perfect throughout from layer 2 till 3000 :-)
- Bonus : Torque. I always torque nozzles based on vendor spec. Diamondback nozzles need to be torqued at 2.5nm
Now let’s talk about the nozzle. There are two main camps here. One finds them perfect and the other, not so much. I am in the not so much Camp.
First I must say I didn’t pay for them. I paid postage and import as these were a gift.
I have two sizes. 0.4mm and 0.8mm. I only used the 0.4mm as that is my known quantity (and quality).
I am aware of the fact you are supposed to print at lower temperature so that wasn’t the source of my problem. I spent almost 70hrs just printing 1st layers and temp towers to dial the temps in.
I also printed flow tests, checked advance pressure and overhang tests.
Basically I have done as much as I can to eliminate any doubt.
The nozzle has two problems for me (I am using the Ender 3 S1 Pro).
First, it’s physical design. It is different. To start, it is up to 1mm shorter (0.8mm was just 0.7mm shorter - the 0.4mm around 0.9 - 1mm depending on callipers used). Which in itself isn’t a problem as you can adjust z no problem, but unless you also move the block the nozzle is attached to, a bit down to compensate, the hot-end fan as well as BL Sensor will be VERY close to the print.
You literally have zero tolerance. In fact, it needs to be so perfect that unless you invest the time to adjust z physically and through the printer OS, you end up hitting the print (potentially) with the fan or the BL Sensor - I had both.
Another issue with the design is just, well, it’s design. When you compare the photos you can see they are indeed different. The difference is bad enough for the silicon shoe not to sit properly.
The shoe is essentially not able to get completely over the nozzle and onto the block, leaving a tiny gap between shoe and block.
That in turn seem to be enough to throw out the temperature regulation. Which is likely the issue I was facing. Plus of course the fact that vibration is never good for not-perfected-fitted parts.
I always had perfect 0.2mm first layers but if the print took more than an hour, all hell broke loose. Even my go to PLA turned into a bowl of spaghetti.
Because the shoe does not sit perfectly it eventually makes its way down and in my case caught the print eventually which in turn destroyed it (the silicone shoe that is). Basically it hit the infill that managed to tear on the shoe, breaking it.
Second problem is temperature related. You need to print cooler with it, which in turn isn’t a problem, but due to the above issues, keeping a perfect temperature for hours or days is impossible.
So in a nutshell. Is this a good nozzle ? Probably. I mean diamond is harder than any abrasive filament so yea, perfect use case.
Does it work for the Ender S1 Pro ? I do not think so. If it would be just for the adjustments required (like pulling off the nozzle, physically move it by 1mm and redo z from dusk till dawn) then yea. Probably worth the effort to invest a few hours. It certainly wouldn't be plug and play though.
But unless Diamondback can provide a better fitting silicone shoe designed for their nozzle and your specific printer - purchase with caution.
Like I say, I am pretty good in dialling in printers but I spent about 70hrs with an already level bed trying to make it work. But FOR ME at least. It’s a no go.
I took it off, put Creality upgraded nozzle back on, eyeballed Z, moved it down during first layer print once, second print perfect. Check the pictures. So yea. I am back to non Diamond nozzles.
submitted by K8stuff to 3Dprinting [link] [comments]


2023.05.25 17:41 Saltiest_Sailor [WTS] MOVING SALE - Geissele MK8 DDC 13.5" + DD 16" Midgas Lightweight Profile Cold Hammer Forged CL Upper / PA 5X Prism 5.56 ACSS Aurora / HMB Enhanced AR15 BCG / CH Precision FN Pistol ACRO Plate / Aero M4E1 Barrel Nuts

Timestamp: https://imgur.com/a/1tN05D9
- Payment Methods That I Accept: PayPal Friends and Family, Zelle, or Venmo Friends Payments.
- I DO NOT Accept PayPal Goods and Services or Venmo Goods and Services Payments.
- If the Payment Provider asks that you put a note, just put food emojis. No firearms/firearms accessories related notes.
EVERYTHING MUST GO, IF SOMETHING ISN'T MARKED AS SOLD SHOOT YOUR SHOT WITH AN OFFER.
//////////////////////// ITEM(S): ////////////////////////
- HM Defense AR-15 5.56/.223 HMB Battle Bolt Carrier Group: Brand New. 9310 Steel Bolt / 4340 Hardened Steel Cam Pin / Nitride Black Finish
Sells for $119.95 New. Your Price is $90 Shipped
- C and H Precision FN 509, FN 510, and FN 545 Aimpoint ACRO Plate: Brand new.
Sells for $64.95 New, Your Price is $40 Shipped
- Aero M4E1 Enhanced Upper Barrel Nuts: Both brand new.
$15 Shipped Each - 2 Available
- Geissele 13.5" DDC MK8 + Daniel Defense 16" Midlength Gas Lightweight Cold Hammer Forged Chrome Lined Barrel + Aero Precision FDE Upper Receiver + Aero Precision Melonite Gas Tube + Pinned BCM 0.750" Low Profile Gas Block + NDZ Performance FDE Cerakoted Ejection Port Cover: Great condition.
Around 500 rounds. Some carbon buildup on end of barrel which can be removed with a CLP soak or some form of Carb-out. There is a small chip in the cerakote on the ejection port cover but you should be rattle-canning this upper anyway.
Gas block pinning done by D. Wilson Mfg. Barrel nut is torqued down to correct Geissele specs using Aeroshell 33 anti-seize grease. The rails crossbolts and set screws are secured with Loctite GO2 Gel/Glue (Heat Resistant Silicone-Based Loctite similar to Blue Loctite for a thread-locking capacity comparison).
IF BOUGHT NEW: Barrel $322.00 + Rail $316.89 + Upper Receiver $97.95 + Ejection Port Cover $15.99 + Gas Tube $16.14 + Pinned Gas Block $44.95 = $813.92 Total Not Including Shipping + Tax
YOUR PRICE: Barrel $250 + Rail $250 + Upper Receiver $75 + Ejection Port Cover $8 + Gas Tube $12 + Pinned Gas Block $40 = $635 Shipped Total
- PRIMARY ARMS 5X PRISM – SLX 5X GEN III ACSS 5.56 AURORA RETICLE with Killflash: Brand new.
Sells for $329.99 Scope + $30 Killflash New, Your Price is $280 + $15 = $295 Shipped
submitted by Saltiest_Sailor to GunAccessoriesForSale [link] [comments]